Tshering Tenzin is the new field coordinator for READ Bhutan.  He wrote an incredibly charming piece about his first visit to Ura, the site of the first READ library in Bhutan. Do take a minute and read it – just wonderful.

- Toni 

 

The nippy winter evanesces tardily delivering another spring; a season of great white hopes, aspiration and Love. Spring welcomes another year and it unfurls new set of dreams and hopes in every soul; it was a perfect hour to drive through the core of the peaceful dragon country in the Himalayas.

It was my first trip to Ura, Bumthang.  It rained down the night out before my trip and I was apprehensive about the snowfall on the high snowcapped triplet peaks of Dochula, Pelala and Yotongla en route to Bumthang. It was a beautiful drive all through to Bumthang amidst the barren boisterous mountains, snowcapped peaks, meandering crystal rivers and smoking chimneys from an old house on a distant hill, an overloaded truck ferrying consumable and an old man clinging to his dear life to the crisscrossed ropes at the back of the truck. The ice clad road didn’t facilitate speedy drive. Just as well, I wanted to savor the feast, feast for my soul I feel the cold biting breeze on my face as I hum to ‘Island in the stream’ by Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton whilst I tap my fingers on the wheel.

Ura is located at 2800-5000 meters above sea level and is south-eastern part district .Total area coverage is approximately 267 square kilometers. Its altitude ranges from with a total population of 195. I have also found from reliable sources that there are 10 villages with 10 Committees, about 229 households, 4 schools, one BHU (Basic Health Unit), 3 ORCs (Out Reach Clinics) and 6 VHW (Village Health Worker). There are 3 Gomdays (where Gomchens study and reside). The main livelihood of the people living in Ura is Agriculture. The cash crops available in Ura are potatoes and mushroom (Sangay Shamu/ Masutaki). And the food crops produced are Wheat, Barley and Sweet Buckwheat. Retailing and packaging of buckwheat is the proposed sustainability project for Ura.

The building community donated an age old two storied building to be refurbished as a READ CLRC. The structure would have been best alternate to film’ Texas Chainsaw massacre’ and it almost looked the same before READ Bhutan revamped the face of the structure. It is approximately 100-200 meters below the east-west national highway that links the western part of the country with eastern Districts which passes through Ura Gewog. It is a two storied typical Bhutanese design building with ample surrounding with bamboo mat fences.  The ground floor is being used as a Day Care Center. M/s Pema Lhaden didn’t look like grade 10 literate to me. She flawlessly fits into a perfect description of a pretty Bhutanese highlander with rosy red cheeks.  She takes care of the Day Care at free of cost for the children in the locality. She timidly answered few questions, hiding behind her friends. There were 19 students last year within the age group of 3-6 years old. After thorough inspection and cross checking of the report to the groundwork, I proceeded towards Ura School for a meeting with librarian and teaching faculties. Ura school is 5-10 minutes walk from our library.

Ura LMC Secretary, Mr. Karma Jurmin is an interesting character who deserves a mention. I was awed to find such an interesting man filled with witty sense of humour, zest for life, thirst for knowledge and entrepreneurship. As we strolled through the dry dusty feeder road towards Ura School, he crackled me up recalling his mothers words on his failure on every business attempt, “ you are enterprising, but you have a big mouth, shut your mouth and you will go far”, she said. I looked at him unbelievably and he reassured me with a childish grin, ‘’See I told you I have big mouth”.

The teacher and staffs of the Ura School were in a meeting since they had just gotten back from two month paid winter vacation, all thanks to Education System in Bhutan. There is nothing in line that could possibly shutout so called ‘paid Holiday’. Without disrupting the momentum of the annual meeting, I requested the librarian and vice principal out of the meeting to discuss on booklist in consultation with the school to assess suitable books for the community. The library had more than 5000-6000 books approximately, of which most are in tatters and taped. Few books might soon find its way to Museum.

After discussions on what kind of the book would be suitable for the READ library, due to time constraint from their end, because they were in the annual teachers meeting, they assured to fax the stock list in a day or two. My odyssey was still futile without getting a complete set of booklist which we can fill the first READ Library with.  I spoke to the Vice -Principal and requested him to bring this up in his meeting with the different subject teachers and ask their suggestions and feedback on what kind of books would have been most suited in our library. We are still waiting for him to fax us the booklist. I also came to a realization that it is sheer waste of time and resource if the teachers make a random list if the books they think are suitable but are not readily available in market. I proposed that I will take a list of the available books of all kinds in the local book shops at the cheapest of the price and follow up with them. We can simultaneously supply books that are best for our READ Library and also available in town. Visiting various book shops helped me to compile catalogue of the books available in the town.

READ Bhutan has requested couple of times to READ Global, India and Kathmandu on a guideline for book selection and procurement. However we were unable to get anything concrete. A guide on book selection and procurement would be most appreciated and helpful for us to help the committee and community select books with ease.

With a smile of contentment on my face, I drove back home the next day through the same mesmerizing vale and iced peaks. My first trip to the First upcoming READ Library was generative, educational, informative and fertile. The impact is profound. The drive was tiring, but the experience eternal.

- Tshering Tenzin

For More Information Please Visit: READGlobal.org

Interested in our READ Bhutan journey? CLICK HERE to find out more!

If you're thinking of traveling to Nepal, take a minute to read our friend Everett Potter's blog post on his 36-hour experience in Nepal.

Read his humorous blog entry.

If you've been to Nepal, his story will ring true with you.

We arrived in Lo Manthang on the 19th of May and we were met at the gate to our lodging by the library management committee, armed with kataks, white scarves used in the Tibetan world to honor guests, and smiles.  After lunch and a bit of time to wash the grime off our bodies, they returned to escort us to the library. 
 
The building is amazing.  It occupies both angles of a street corner, directly across from the entry to the royal palace, and is painted in the typical primary colors of red, blue, green, and yellow, as well as white.  The main entrance was closed until  the innauguration, two days later.  
 
The library is on the second floor and the bottom floor contains 11 prime-front storefronts that are almost all rented now.  Inside is a square courtyard space with a beautiful prayer flag pole in the center.  Directly opposite the entrance on the second floor is a large meeting room which will also provide rental income to support the library.
 
The stairs are on the left as you enter and take you first to the large reading room.  Here, in addition to the regular books, one can find a place for lamas to sit, pray and find religious books and a set of books in Tibetan.  The sign, however, does not read "Tibetan Books", but "Local Language", as they do not want to be identified with Tibet.  
 
The next room is the children's section, perhaps one of the best equipped of all the libraries.  Not only are there the educational toys from Dorothy Adamson and the American School in the Hague, but other learning toys as well.  The Early Childhood Center (ECC), sponsored by the American Himalayan Society, will operate 6 days a week from 9-4 in this room.
 
Next is the cultural section, with musical instrument, films, and items that reflect the fascinating culture of Lo Manthang.  There is talk that the museum across the street will also occupy this space.
 
Of course there is the AV room and computer section with two computers.  The Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) is going to provide connectivity for the library. 
 
Without doubt, this is the most incredible building in Lo and everyone, everyone is amazed!
 
On the 19th, the management committee took us on a tour of the ECC and the government school.  The ECC is presently in dark two-room building with an outdoor play area.  There are 19 children who are 2-3 years old, 1 teacher and three parents.  Three of the children, who sit together in the last row, are lower caste, and one of the mothers is also from that class and works specifically with them.  The teachers work on hygiene (each child has a tooth brush, etc.), alphabet and songs.  They sang for us, and then I taught them "Sano, Sano Makura" (The Eensy Weensy Spider).
 
About a 10 minute walk away along a path lined with water and assorted piles of goat, horse and yak droppings was the government school that goes up to grade 8.  The only secondary school in Upper Mustang is in Chosar, 3 hours away.  Most of the children here who go on to grade 10 and above go down to Jomsom or Pokhara for education, though.  From October through mid-April, the school and all the students and teachers physically move to Pokhara for the winter, as it is too cold in Mustang. 
 
The locals have been very concerned about the quality of education, and have turned the school into a community school.  That means that local leaders have set up a fund to provide three extra teachers, more books, etc.  The leader of this is Gyapcho, the head of the library committee.  Interestingly also, when one looks at the students in grade 8, the highest at the time, they are all women.  When I asked why, the answer was that the men went to the monastery school.
 
In the afternoon, we visited the three monasteries in town - Thuptchen, Jhampa and Choede - with the librarian, Diki.  All belong to the Sakya sect and Choede is the foremost, with a school that houses many, many monks.  Actually, the housing for the monks was built by the Indian Government, an effort to curry favor with this area bordering on Tibet, and with a road that literally links China and India.  The Rimpoche is the key religious person in town. 
 
Walking the town is amazing.  Because of the wind, the alleys are narrow, either stone or dirt, and bordered by high homes on both sides.  As you turn a corner, you can see anything from a group of women with lined, weather-worn brown faces, sitting on the ground spinning wool, to someone killing and cutting up a goat for dinner, to a group of horses or yaks wandering along, followed by their keeper with a stick.  Everywhere you go, you need to watch, because some animal has left its mark on the ground to dodge!  Many of the streets have water canals, where people gather to wash clothes, dishes or, often, themselves.
 
The center of the old city is the huge medieval-looking palace of the former King of Mustang and his son, the former Crown Prince Jigme. The monarchy was abolished with the new government, so "former" is politically correct.  Now only six rooms are occupied, but Jigme hopes one day to restore the palace.  He spends much time in Kathmandu, but at least two months here in Lo.
 
We had invited the Crown Prince, JIgme, and the management committee to dinner at our lodge that night.  My friend Utpal, whose wife owns the best restaurant in Kathmandu,  and our incredible trekking crew prepared a magnificent dinner.  In the dirt courtyard of our building, they erected a large tent with Tibetan designs, and a smaller tent that would house the buffet dinner.  Chaitya, our truly incomparable cook, and his group worked all day to prepare dinner.  They took cans of sardines, covered them in foil, filled them with dirt, and put candles inside to give light.  They scrambled to find dishes and table covers to decorate the tables, and the tempting smells of mutton curry, dal, bhat, wonderful mixed vegetables and achar filled the air.  They even baked a chocolate cake for me!
 
The group arrived together at 7PM, led by Jigme, the Crown Prince, and Gyapcho, the committee head.  Jigme is a delight - down to earth, funny, friendly, truly very natural.  He had spent time in the US, primarily in California, with Richard Blum, but had also seen other places.  His English was okay, but it was clearly easier to communicate in Nepali.   At first conversation was a bit stilted, but Utpal's jokes and lots of beer (except for the Choede Lama!), loosed up the conversation.  Some I could follow, but the punch lines of the jokes went over my head!
 
Yesterday was the first day of Tiji.  In the morning, on my way over to internet, I got waylayed by the head of ACAP to sit on the dais for their "birthday celebration".  It was a blend of speeches that were too long and songs by local students and others. 
 
Then, in the afternoon, Tiji began.  Tiji is basically a festival for peace, an exorcism festival where the main deity is Guru Rimpoche.  It lasts three days, and the last day the monks take the sins of the village, in the form of "tormas", figures of flour, food coloring and water, and break them, carry them outside the village and and shoot flaming arrows off into the air.
 
Each day begins with the unfurling of a Thanka (large picture) of Guru Rimpoche.  The first day is primarily dancing that is geared to cleansing the area of evil and invoking the gods.  The second day depicts the forces of good and evil, and the last is the final exorcism.  There is a cadre of monks who are the "orchestra" and sit under the thanka with symbols and long horns, providing music for the monk/dancers.  Then, costumed, and sometimes wth masks, about 8 monks perform a series of ritual dances, led by a monk who is the embodiment of Guru Rimpoche.  He has actually spent the last three weeks in solitary meditation in preparation for the festival. 
When each dance ends, the monks sit in two lines facing each other and are served tea. 
 
Lining the square in front of the palace, hanging from roof tops, sitting on top of one another is the audience - a blend of locals and foreigners.  The foreigners are all wearing photo passes, bought for Rs. 375/day.  Kids are teasing each other, pulling pigtails, rolling around, women are crowded together on the cobblestones, and everyone is jockeying for a good position.  Luckily, I met one of the store owners at the school, and she offered me her stoop with a small Tibetan Carpet to soften the stones!!
 
After the day's dancing ended, I rushed back to clean up and dress for dinner.  I had brought my Sherpa dress and the apron that is particular to this part of the world, and dressed like the locals.
 
This time, we were invited to the palace!  Now, Tibetan style houses all have narrow and very steep stairs that lead from one floor to another; but, to get to the main floor of the palace, in total darkness, we had to climb four of these staircases!  Aside from an excercise in courage and gymnastics, it was also a breathing excercise. 
 
Know that the first time you meet people in Nepal, you are guests and everyone is restrained and polite.  The second time, you are friends and joking and fun are par of the course.  People sat on carpet-covered benches that lined two walls in the room.  The third wall was a buffet dinner and the last held a beautifully carved chest painted with gold color.  Jigme served wine, beer and assorted hors d'oeuvres until everyone was suitably happy.  Then we all ate dinner - not as good as ours - but just fun to be there.  The biggest debate of the night was over education and how to get your child into the best schools, particularly if you are not a celebrity.
 
Today was the key day for READ.  We awoke at 6 and were ready to go the the library for the dedication by 8.  Things were late, of course.  The monks had to finish praying and purifying the place and many people were let inside the courtyard area.  Sanjana and I were both dressed in local clothes, as beautifully as we could.  When it was time, Gyapcho came by and we walked the back way to the palace.  There were special local drummers, dancing up and down and the library committee dressed in full Tibetan dress and the wonderful tall, furred silk hats. As we arrived, Jigme descended the stairs, dressed in a long Tibetan sort of coat, and hat.  He and I together walked towards the library, preceeded by the drummers and followed by Sanjana, the READ staff and the library committee. 
 
Outside the palace confines it was amazing.  Children of all sizes and shapes lined the pavement holding Kataks, parents would lift up their little one so he could drape the katak over my or someone's shoulders, the crowds were huge - a scene out of some medieval movie, a Lhasa apso was running around barking at everyone, and goats were peeking out around corners.  In front of the library on one side were a group of older girls dressed in white Tibetan dresses, and on the other, a group of boys in male dress.  They sang and danced for us.  Opposite was a tiny boy in full Tibetan dress, with a hat as big as he was on his head, holding a plate of butter.  There were two girls, one with wheat and one with tea.  I watched as Jigme took some butter, dipped in in the wheat and took some and then threw it in the air.  Next he took a drop of tea with the 4th finger of his hand and dropped it on the ground for the gods.
 
I was handed a huge key for a huge lock, and, fortunately helped to open the door.  We entered to find the courtyard packed, and students all along the uppper part of the library.  Taken to our seats, I sat in front with Jigme on one side and Sanjana on the other.  Behind us, on the upper level, monks blew their horns, cymbals clanged and water was thrown to purify the area.  Then we were given bowls of rice and dried fruits.  After prayers, we had to eat some, so that the ceremony could begin.  Next, we all took a small handful of Tsampa flour and barley in our hands, turned around, and, at a signal from the monks, threw it at the prayer flag, while muskets were fired from the roof. 
 
The next step was for me to pull the curtain on the plaque, describing the date and key innauguration information.
 
Turning around, we sang the national anthem, and the program began.  Basically, local dances alternated with speeches - a budget report followed by Tibetan dancing, a committee comment, followed by kids in masks.  Many of the speeches were in Tibetan, so even Sanjana could not follow.  In this world, the most important speeches were last.  Sanjana gave her speech, and then read Allison's speech to everyone in both Nepali and English (there were many foreigners).  
 
After dancing, I went next, talking in Nepali, something that works very well with the locals.  There were also quite a few tourists, allowing for an English description of READ and what it does.  Several left donations and left me with their names. 
 
The final speech was that of Jigme, basically a thank you to all.  Following a group photo, we all went outside to greet, as Jigme said, the "people".  It was mind-boggling - old ladies, cripples, men, their faces lined with the dirt of the area or age, more children and animals.  The people were all trying to give kataks, touch our faces or feet, or stick out their tongues in a gesture of friendship.  In Tibet, to show that you were not evil with a black tongue, it became a custom to greet people by sticking out your pink tongue!! 
 
We all walked very slowly past this assembly of incredible well-wishers, preceded by the drummer, back to the palace door.  Then Jigme headed back and this incredible morning was over.
 
I wish there were time to truly give a better sense of the colors, faces of the people, the clothes.  Let me just say that I have dedicated probably more than 35 libraries over the years.  This was the most unbelievable, medieval, ritual, humbling, exhilerating dedication, in one of the most remote, most unique communities not just in Nepal, but in the world. 

Toni Neubauer, President of Myths and Mountains & Founder of READ Global

As far as the eye can see the stones of the Kali Gandhaki riverbed stretch north, bordered on each side by tall brown cliffs and with the tips of snow capped mountains dotting the horizon.  Walking along a path through the stones, worn by travelers - both local and international, horses, mule trains and now cars, tractors and motor cycles, you find yourself searching the stones to find one of the magical saligrams, fossils of fish, shells and other creatures that inhabited the Tibetan plateau thousands of years ago and now wash down with the river waters.  To the Hindus and Buddhists, these fossils are not only sacred, a symbol of Vishnu, but a source of income from sales to tourists and pilgrims.
 
As you walk, there is no shade at all and the path alternates between steep climbs up onto the river banks and alongside stone and dirt walls and sandy unstable sharp drops back onto the riverbed.  The dominant color is brown, brown walls, brown sandy dirt dotted with black stones.  The only other colors, aside from the clothes of the hikers and animals is the bright blue of the sky with an occasional white peak of a mountain top.
 
Suddenly, far in the distance, you begin to see the brown and white Tibetan style houses and fields of wheat that signal a small village - an oasis in this dry desolate area.  By this time, the fierce wind that blows through the Kali Gandhaki gorge has come up, and dust and dirt are everywhere - in your teeth, your hair, your bags, your clothes.  The wheat fields that are finally beginning to line the side of the path are in constant motion - waving stalks of green dancing at your feet. 
 
As you pass through the town, there are donkeys and Tibetan ponies lining the narrow streets and if you do not look down, without doubt you will find your foot in a pile of droppins.  Women are washing clothes in the water canals that parallel the path or where there is a fountain.  Men are sitting in the sun talking, their faces lined and brown from the wind and constant sun. 
 
We picknicked in an apple orchard - a rare spot of green along this dry desert route - a delicious lunch of dal rice, green vegetables, salad and potato curry all prepared in a corner of the orchard on gas cooking stoves by our staff. 
 
Then it was back to the brown, but this time on a Tibetan pony, perhaps the best way to travel this desert region with its difficult ups and downs.  Again, the path led across the river bed, sun beating down, wind blowing in never-ending gusts, making it difficult to keep any hat on one's head.  Finally, around a turn, high up on a hill, we could see Chele.  The horse picked his way through the stones and sand of the river.  Suddenly, another horseman cantered by.  Inspired, the horse picked up his pace, cantering along the stones, despite the shouts of the horsemen, afraid their precious client would tumble down onto the rocks.  The horse turned uphill after the other horse, and began climbing through sand, stones and on a sharp uphill.  Walking, the hike would be 45 minutes of steep unbroken sun and sand.  On horseback, it took about 10 minutes.
 
Finally, arriving at the top, the horse knew exactly where camp was, a small enclosure, lined with flowers and now filled with 4 red tents.  We had done the first leg.

 More later,

Back in 2007, Myths and Mountains had a group of filmmakers approach us to arrange a trek in Nepal and make a short film about the non-profit we founded - READ Global.  They followed me and our READ Nepal tour group all around the Nepal countryside filming the villages and libraries we visited, and getting to know all sorts of local people.  After sending us the final version, we love it!  The film shows just what READ Global is about and how Myths and Mountains is collaborating with READ to get the word out.  It also shows how Myths and Mountains trips take people inside the cultures of the countries we visit.

READ Global began back in 1991 when, after a trek, people started to tip me.  Debating about what to do with the money, I asked our sirdar (the Nepali leader) what he needed most in his village, and he replied, “A library”.  Light bulbs went off for me, and since then, READ Global has built close to 50 fully sustainable library/community centers with the help of Myths and Mountains, its travelers and friends.  To read more about READ Global, click here.

Happy Travels,
Toni Neubauer
Myths and Mountains President & READ Global Founder

In the States, as you get older and are no longer a sexy teenager who attracts all sorts of whistles, you acquire the gift of anonymity, the ability to walk down the street or go into a store or restaurant, and have no one really notice you are there, if you don't want.  Here, in China, anonymity is totally impossible and you are rather like Ling Ling in the Washington Zoo.  Last night at dinner, a little girl spent the entire time on her haunches in front of my table just staring at me.  At the botanical garden, I was rarer than the rarest plant.

Tea - It turns out that Xishuangbanna has one of China's 10 great teas - Puer Tea, that sells for $90/kilo.  There is a clunk of this tea about the size of Charlie Brown's great pumpkin that is 1000 years old and resides in the Beijing Museum.  Here in the area there is a tea tree that is 1700 years old, and people trek through the jungle to pay it homage.  They no longer pick the leaves.  Rather, like a good stud horse, it has been left to thrive in the rainforest. 

They make tea a bit differently here, rolling the leaves into small clumps that open up in hot water.  Every Chinese has his special tea bottle of some strange color with all sorts of leaves floating around.  What I can't figure out is why, with all the good tea in the area, all restaurants serve the low grade teas of a very uncertain color. 

If the girl finds the boy attractive and thinks she might like to get to know him, she pulls out the small stool and replies, "No, this chicken is not for anyone.  You can have it."  The boy then says, "Oh, it looks so delicious we should share it with each other."  They then take the two stools and the chicken and find a private place where they can eat the chicken and get to know each other more.  As my guide explained, "It is very romantic."  He noted that you can try to do this in the daily market, but it is not as good.  It gives you a chance to really know a girl.  Do you think we can get Raley's to give this a try and add romance to the fryers?!

One more note about how history intertwines.  The Thais say that Chiang Mai was founded in 1100 by Mengrai, who built the city and founded the Lanna dynasty where he saw three white barking deer.  He is said to have come from China.  Here in Xishuangbanna, there is a city called Monghai, named after a famous warrior, who is said to have built a pagoda in 1100 where he saw a golden deer, and is credited with being the founder of the Dai and Thai people.  My guess is that Mengrai and Monghai are one and the same, particularly since it only takes 12 hours by boat to Chiang Rai down the Mekong.

What is the importance of Xishuangbanna?  Well, it is in a critical geographical location on the borders of Myanmar, Thailand and Laos.  Every day, tons of Chinese come down here, stay in hotels, use the prostitutes, and drive to the border to buy jade and gems (Aung San Suu Kyi be darned).   Here is where the Chinese are building the big road to Myanmar that has so many Asian countries worried about the political influence it will exert.  You can take a boat to Laos in two hours and Chiang Rai in 12.  Three times a week, there are flights to Chiang Mai and Bangkok.  Thus this is a serious location.

Other than the location, it does not compare with colorful Guizhou.  The cultures here are very sinicized (is this a word?), unless you are way up in the hills in villages that are almost impossible to reach.  The different people do live in villages in houses that echo the traditional styles, but much of their culture is lost and the young fight what still remains. 

Well, I have done Xishuangbanna in spades:  I have visited Dai and Aini villages and talked with the locals, while sitting on tiny stools that remind me that I am on a diet.  In 36 degree heat (my math stinks, but the locals are really complaining that this is far too hot), we have explored the two botanical gardens Xishuangbanna has to offer in the most minute detail you can imagine, including portions no one sees.  Yesterday the Japanese were collapsing under the trees and standing in herds under the sprinklers, as we trotted bravely onward.  I have seen tea, pineapple, and other plantations, climbed tons of steps in the heat to photograph pagodas (I am really pagodaed out), and if I never visit another market again, it may be too soon.  Forget Raleys forever.  I have photographed pomelos and dried fish, families and headdresses, traffic jams and water buffalo jams. 

So now we are off to Tibet and who knows what sort of computer access.  The phone is working, thanks to Chou.  I am saying farewell to the land of Chilis and good food and heading to the land of yak meat, dumplings and tsampa.  I must admit, the thought of someplace cool is appealing.

Toni